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CITYLIFE / Eating Out
The long lasting scents
By Maya (smartshanghai.com)
Updated: 2007-07-02 10:26
Magnolia is located at the top of the Mansion Hotel on Xinle Lu. We've
all seen the place being renovated for ages, and finally a few months
back it opened. It has both indoor and outdoor seating, which is
important since the patio is the best in the French Concession area. You
can see the Kwah building, the Jing-An Hilton, and the Okura Garden
Hotel. The hotel itself has around 30 rooms, decorated in gaudy "upper
class" fabrics and lots of small details and crown molding-type
aesthetics. Apparently they're quite expensive. I couldn't help but think
how I'd rather be at clean and modern JIA in HK for less. There's also a
case of random objects that have nothing in common, which I encountered
on the top floors. Overall though, the building is quite magnificent-
especially when you enter the large, guilded iron gates. There's a double
entry with a glass sunroom before the front doors, and the dark wood
throughout the hotel is warm, and has the feeling of being a
distinguished number of years old.
We didn't expect to have to argue for a table on a Monday night in the
French concession. But we did. This was a great sign; the outdoor patio
was scenic and the atmosphere inviting. Packed tables of foreigners and
locals crowded around flickering candles, animatedly talking over bottles
of Chianti. The stage was set for a great romantic dinner, even if it's
just with friends.
Upon seating, however, our party of 4 was in essence deserted for the
night. We ordered a bottle of wine, and enjoyed the proper tasting
etiquette, but after our appetizer came (a very delectable roast pepper
stuffed with spiced lentils and goats cheese), we were ignored for the
evening.
To be fair, the food was really good. Everything was under 200 RMB (even
for a quality steak), with appetizers in the vicinity of 78 RMB and
under. For 2 bottles of wine, 1 appetizer, 4 main dishes, and 2 deserts
we paid 450 RMB each (pretty moderate for this city in terms of "finer
dining"). We enjoyed steak frites (excellent!), salmon with couscous and
eggplant pickle (a tangy addition to a more delicate palate), and canolli
with wild mushrooms and tomato sauce over a bed of green beans and chick
peas (fresh and healthy). The only thing that was less than great was the
canolli – we were big fans of lots of cheese, and there was not so much.
Basically the biggest blow to recount was the 15% service charge on our
bill at the end of the evening. We were all quite shocked, to be honest.
Everyone's mouths dropped open, and the insinuation without need for
words was: "what? We just endured horrible service, and we have to pay
for it?"
The conclusion was that despite the poor service, if you want a relaxing
evening with a long dinner, and you don't mind waiting around since
you're having such good banter, then go to Magnolia. It's in the chic
Xinle Lu district of the French Concession, has an excellent patio and
comfortable seating, a decent wine list, and a succulent steak frites.
Magnolia
Location: 5/f, 82 Xinle Lu, Mansion Hotel, near Xiangyang Lu
Tel: 021-54036692
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